badla (India) flattened metal wire used in traditional metal work embroidery, like zardozi or kamdani, where it may be pierced, crimped, stitched, or couched onto the surface of a fabric. To produce badla wire, a bar of pure silver or silver fused with gold is beaten and pulled with pliers through small holes of a flat, perforated steel plate. The resulting soft, flexible threads are then lightly hammered into flat ribbons of desired thinness. Traditional badla embroidery techniques are believed to have come to India in the 16th century via the second Mughal emperor, Humayun. After exile in Persia, Humayun returned to India bringing with him Persian artists to influence the Indian courtly arts. For dosa’s fabrics, badla wire is pulled through a cloth’s surface, pressed down with the back of one’s thumbnail filling a desired motif, and flattened with a glass bottle or cowrie shell. This technique is known as badla work in Gujarat and Mumbai, or mukaish in Punjab, and often done by women. (2004) See also zari


bandhani (India) ancient technique of resist-dye or tie-dye characterized by a constellation of very fine dots created by pinching fabric, dot by dot, and tightly binding with fine cotton thread to resist dye penetration; derived from Sanskrit banda ‘to tie’. dosa bandhani is handmade in Kutch by the Khatri brothers, master artisans who left jobs in banking to return to the family’s traditional practice. They bring a fresh and experimental approach to the craft, and provide work that supports over 300 local women artisans who do fine binding. (1996) See also recycled bandhani 


Big Bend Saddlery (USA) camping and western leather goods store committed to using domestic leathers and producing goods in-house. It remains one of the last places in the US to make leather saddles by hand. The saddlery opened in 1905 in Alpine, Texas, in a region known for the big bend made by the Rio Grande River. Behind the store is a workshop where co-owners Gary Dunshee, Brett Collier, and Carla Spencer make custom leather goods for dosa. (2013)